Cuxac from the lower road

A flower lined village road

To the north of Carcassonne is the Cabardes wine growing area lying on the slopes of the Montagne Noire. One of the villages nestled in a valley higher up the slopes on the Carcassonne to Mazamet road is Cuxac-Cabardes. Cuxac has its own microclimate, sheltered from the winds common along the corridor between Atlantic and Med used by the Canal du Midi.

In the heart of Cuxac

The village houses, many decked with flowers, provide a number of interesting walks along roads and through woods, direct from one of the carparks.

A woodland walk direct from the village of Cuxac

Tour de France

Route Limoux to Foix

This year the race will pass quite close to Carcassonne – the nearest place will be the 192km  stage from Limoux to Foix through the Pyrenees on the 15th July.

The town is renowned for its “blanquette” a sparkling champagne type wine.  As far as cycling is concerned, the town will be hosting a start stage of the Tour de France for the secondtime in a row

To the north of Carcassonne lies the Montagne Noire, from the slopes of which on winter mornings one has wonderful views of the mountain ranges that divide France from Spain -

 

 

 

 

 

the snow topped Pyrenees and all the foothills that lie in France spread across the whole of the horizon. The road to Mazamet has several spots where one can park up the car and take in this 180 degree vista. Or you could drive south from Carcassonne to explore and be lucky enough to see the morning mists over the foothills.

The foothills to the Pyrenees.

Cycling along near Carcassonne

A very pleasant time can be had taking a cycle ride along the Canal du Midi any time of the year. You can simply park your car anywhere along side it and set off on your own or hired bike. We have spent many happy hours admiring the varied views from the towpaths.

The bridge near Trebes

Views of villages, hills, fields of vines and crops and it’s all so easy no peddling up hills – just the thing for me. It really is ideal for me to kid myself that I’ve been exercising!

The Canal du Midi (World Heritage Site) is in fact 240 km long joining the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and built the 17th century, but a couple of km a trip is enough for me, and just think all those different exercise sessions ! !

Labyrinth by Kate Mosse

Since 2007 when Kate Mosse first published “Labyrinth”, Carcassonne has become quite well known among the British public at large. Prior to it most British travellers “bumped” into it almost by accident whilst meandering through south-west France on their annual pilgrimage to the sun drenched lands across the Channel. The story Kate Mosse tells is of a land inhabited by a now long forgotten highly religious people, the Cathars a religion at odds with the Roman Church at the time, and who suffered a crusade led by, amongst others, Simon de Montford, the Earl of Leicester and whose son was responsible for England’s first Parliament.

I recall my first stay in a rental home below La Cité whilst house hunting with the now owner of “Les Coquelicots”  and seeing and meeting, in my mind at least, the very people described in the book.

I now await to see if a film is ever made of Labyrinth and wonder how the tourist trade will increase Since 2007 when Kate Mosse first published “Labyrinth”, Carcassonne has become quite well known among the British public at large. Prior to it most British travellers “bumped” into it almost by accident whilst meandering through south-west France on their annual pilgrimage to the sun drenched lands across the Channel. The story Kate Mosse tells is of a land inhabited by a now long forgotten highly religious people, the Cathars a religion at odds with the Pope and the Roman Catholic Church at the time, and who suffered a crusade led by, amongst others, Simon de Montford, the Earl of Leicester and whose son was responsible for England’s first Parliament.

I recall my first stay in a rental home below La Cité whilst house hunting with the now owner of “Les Coquelicots”  and seeing and meeting, in my mind at least, the very people described in the book.

I now await to see if a film is ever made of Labyrinth and wonder how the tourist trade will increase.

Aragon across the valley

The church in Aragon

We visited Aragon earlier in the year and took one of the signposted country walks starting  at the car park  that lead us around fields of vines and along a ridge on the other side of a small valley where the village is displayed at its best. The walk was quite a gentle one taking about 45 mins (with stops for photos)

Aragon is a picturesque small village to the north of Carcassonne, in the Cabardes wine area. It is perched around a small hill and has several pretty houses surrounding the church.

Winter is here and the need for those roaring log fires, so off to the wood yard we go: – to buy a “stere” or two of logs????? Yes a “stere”

Log fire

Metrication was introduced in 1799 but still hasn’t reached the sellers of logs for winter warming.

The pre-revolutionary measurement of volume, the “stere” is still in widespread use. It is now supposed to be a cubic metre, however a cubic yard (three foot cube) is what you get. Ancient measuring boxes and measuring rods all echoing the old “Imperial measurement” past, are seen on log cutters tractors and in wood yards. But to villagers what does it matter – it all keeps us warm!!!!!

Yes it is that time of year again, when mushroom pickers all over France are out foraging for fungi.  Take a trip to one of the local markets hereabouts during the autumn, and you will see stalls of mushrooms the like of which you have probably never seen before.

Cepes, girolles, morels, even truffles can be found growing wild.  Mushrooms that we in the UK only ever see as dried, shrivelled and broken in a little packet from Tesco’s, jostle for space with more common varieties.

The best and safest way to satisfy any mushroom craving is to wander the local markets and marvel at the displays. If you’re buying, let the market stall keeper pick them up and weigh them; they don’t take kindly to you handling them.

However, if you’re thinking of trying it yourself, take care. There are rules and regulations and you must know what you are picking.

I understand there is a wild mushroom course with a local expert in Cuxac Cabardes on Saturday 9th December 2011, with an optional visit to a truffle market on Saturday morning and a talk in the afternoon from an expert with advice on conservation and recipes.  On Sunday 10th Dec 2011 A morning walk in the beautiful Cabardes forests with an expert to recognise and collect wild mushrooms.

Other Mushroom Events locally :Truffle Market - Saturday 24 December

Truffle Market- Saturday 14 January 2012

Walk the ditches where truffles can be found, 10:00 to 13:00. Tel: 04 68 26 16 19….

Truffle Market - Saturday 4 February 2012

Walk the ditches where truffles can be found, 10:00 and 13:00. 20:00 gourmet meal, tel: 04 68 26 16 19….

A useful link to what;s on in the Carcassonne area is provided by AngloInfo on this link: http://languedoc.angloinfo.com/information/whatsonwhat.asp?cat=33

Revel Market

Of all the markets around this region, and there are many, one of the most fascinating is probably Revel market, held each Saturday morning.

It is a very pretty drive from our village to Revel, through lush green countryside, then moorland, forests, past lakes and mountain passes, until you descend the hill into Revel itself – all in a half hour drive !

Revel Market

Parking is fairly limited in Revel, so it pays to start early, find your niche to park the car, and just follow the shopping bags into the centre.  You will soon emerge into a large, galleried square, with cafes and restaurants under the galleries.  In the centre of the square is an open-sided building, rather like the old village corn stores that can still be seen sometimes in the UK.

The market itself is fascinating.  The covered area in the centre sells breads, cheeses, local farm made honeys, wine and other delicacies.  Or did you fancy a new pair of hunting dogs, may be some laying hens, or ducks – you will surely find them here.

Revel Market

Around the perimeter of the square are the vegetables, the olives in huge oak barrels, the paella stall (this is the Catalan area of France, after all) and many other fresh foods.

Just off the square is the other part of the market with clothes and shoes.  You may even find that special bolt or hand-tool that you were looking for.  If you don’t find what you are looking for, it has still been a fascinating morning, and coffee or ice cream to try at one of those little cafes, under those ancient wooden galleries around the square.

Yes it is true… for more than 2,000 years precious metals have been mined in this area – gold in particular.  The Romans certainly mined here, but for iron, apparently unaware that the chemical composition of the rock contained gold.

Until quite recently there was a very profitable working gold mine just a few miles away, at Salsigne, west of the Chateaux de Lastours.  In 1995/6 the mine produced in excess of 79,000 ounces of gold, the largest production of gold in Western Europe. It only finally closed its doors in 2004.

The gold mine at Salsigne, may have been worked out but locals say flecks and tiny nuggets can still be found in the river bed of the Orbiel and some of the mountain streams.  So… as you walk the country lanes and footpaths, keep your eyes open for that yellow glint of gold…… you never know, you might just be lucky !!

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